Are you tempted by via ferratas? Don't forget quality shoes and climbing set

Via ferrata climbing is becoming increasingly popular. Accessing difficult peaks is an exciting challenge for many. Although via ferratas are becoming safer thanks to modern equipment, never underestimate the importance of good preparation.

What is via ferrata?

Via ferrata – "iron path", refers to a protected path in difficult mountain terrain. The belay is provided by a secure steel cable, firmly attached to metal fixtures set into the rock. The fixtures are spaced at regular intervals (maximum 5 metres). Climbers secure themselves to the cable, which is the main difference from traditional rock climbing.

In addition to the safety cable, there are other elements along the way such as ladders, bridges, rungs and pegs to make your ascent easier.

What to keep in mind before your first climb?

In the beginning, it is best if your group is led by an experienced climbing guide. When you get hooked on climbing, you can also take a climbing course. In any case, it's better if you don't go on via ferratas by yourself. Each group should always accommodate the weakest member.

You need special equipment for via ferrata, never go without it.

Don't climb the via ferrata in bad weather. The wet surface is not only twice as challenging, but you can also easily become a target for lightning.

Don't forget that there are other people on the route besides you – behave responsibly, don't drop rocks on purpose and make way for faster climbers.

Levels of difficulty of via ferratas

Like climbing routes, via ferratas have a universal difficulty marking so that you can choose one that is appropriate to your abilities. The modern difficulty scale according to the Austrian ferratist Kurt Schall uses A to F grades.

A – easy route: A simple route with easy elements, which an experienced climber can manage even without belaying, but for children it is necessary to have a short rope.

B – moderately difficult route: Moderately steep, rocky terrain with obstacles that may require stronger arms. Even more experienced climbers should be fully equipped. A short rope is also required for beginners and children.

C – difficult route: Steep to very steep terrain, vertical sections, more challenging elements requiring experience and strength. Beginners and children only with a guide.

D – very difficult: Vertical and overhanging terrain, possibly sections without artificial belay, requires good fitness and responsible preparation. Not suitable for children and beginners.

E – extremely difficult route: Only for trained and experienced ferratists, strict requirements for strength and experience with climbing on steep rocks. Additional belaying with rope is recommended in some places, and a full-body harness or a combination of a sit and chest harness is advised as well.

F: Overhanging section, extremely difficult, with possible pushing of the body out of the safety cable line, requiring perfect technique. A full-body harness (or a chest harness combined with a sit harness) and a top-rope is strongly recommended.

Compulsory equipment for via ferrata

For safety reasons, it is necessary to use special gear on via ferratas. It consists of a climbing harness, a Y-shaped lanyard and a helmet. They are often sold together at a better price.

Sit harness

The most frequently used is the sit harness, consisting of a belt with two adjustable leg loops. It is important that it be comfortable, snug, but at the same time it must not be too tight or too loose. It must not hinder you while climbing, but there is a risk of slipping out if it is too loose. Consider the anatomical differences between men and women and choose a harness intended for men or for women.

For more demanding terrain, you can combine the sit harness with a chest harness or directly use a full-body harness, which is useful if your centre of gravity is shifted due to a heavy backpack.

Energy absorber

You attach yourself to the iron safety cable with a via ferrata lanyard, which serves as a safety device. It consists of a carabiner and energy absorber.

The most commonly used energy absorbers are Y-shaped. On one side there is a tie-in loop that gets attached to the harness with a knot, on the other side it branches into two elastic arms with carabiners at the end. You will always keep both carabiners hooked on the safety steel cable. When you come to the metal fixture by which the steel cable is attached to the rock, you will unhook only one carabiner and hook it on the cable behind the fixture. Only then you unhook the other one. Continue in this way to the next fixture – always slide the carabiners along the cable.

DON'T FORGET! You must never unhook both carabiners at once, you would have no security and the consequences would be fatal.

K-type carabiners, which have a wider opening and a self-closing mechanism, are specially designed for via ferratas. Such as Singing Rock carbines.

Currently, the most popular energy absorber is the so-called tearing energy absorber that absorbs most of the fall energy by tearing the webbing sewn together and hidden in a protective pouch. Hopefully, you will never need to use it, but when you do, you have to replace it with a new one.

Climbing helmet

Via ferrata helmet must be a special helmet for climbing, as there is a risk of loose stones falling on your head, or you may hit a rock. The helmet must fit well and should be comfortable.

Especially in summer, don't underestimate ventilation. It is useful if the helmet also has a headlamp mount.

Via ferrata shoes

For easier via ferratas, regular hiking boots with lug soles will be enough. You can also choose special shoes for rough terrain – the so-called approach shoes with a climbing part in front, such as Garmont Ascent GTX.

Climbing shoes are a separate category. You will appreciate them on more demanding routes. For vertical routes with small steps, harder climbing shoes are more suitable, while for overhanging routes and sand, softer shoes are better. La Sportiva climbing shoes are very popular.

Of course, the season and the climbing conditions also play a role when choosing via ferrata shoes. In case of snow and ice, be sure to add climbing crampons to your equipment.

Climbing backpack

To keep all the essentials with you, you will need a backpack that is compact, light and has easily accessible compartments.

​MUZIKER TIP: In your backpack, pack water, snacks, spare clothes, insulation layer, charged phone, possibly power bank, headlamp with batteries, sunglasses, and sunscreen.

Climbing gloves

The most commonly used gloves for via ferrata are fingerless gloves. Their role is to protect your hands, as you are holding on to a steel cable which can be damaged. You can also use cycling gloves, but they must fit your hand well, not too loose and not too tight. In case of colder weather, they can also be full-fingered. It is important that they have a good grip to avoid slipping.

Clothes for via ferrata

Clothes should be functional, comfortable and not restrict your movement in any way. Depending on the season, the number of layers should also be adjusted and combined correctly.

Climbing equipment

In case of unexpected complications, it is advisable to have additional equipment, such as spare carabiners, a short rope, a belay device and an ascender.